Questions & Answers

C1 & D2, where are these options ?

+1 vote
I am trying to do a full reset on an EVO-ONE, and I can't find where to do it.

In the Flash Link Manager, If I click option 23, it sets the options back to factory, and I click save, and it looks like that saves the settings, but I want to fully reset the unit.

I also see it says C1 and D2 are supposed to be enabled, but I can't find where these settings are in the software and the version written on the programming note that came with the unit says V79.24.

How do I know if that is right, and where do I find this info on the site ?

The software says Flash Link Manager 3.52

Is there another software that I need to use?

I am using a Crime Stopper Revo-1 and I have the setting for the factory remote set to off, since my car does not support that, but is there another option to set for using the after market antenna unit ?

Thanks
posté Mar 23, 2015 dans la catégorie Toyota par william simard (170 points)

1 Réponse

0 votes

Required options for the Crimestopper REVO are outlined in this guide : EVO-ALL & Crimestopper

 

C1 and D1 are found in the bypass options and not the remote starter options. Those options though are for vehicles that have Can-bus connections. The 1999 Avalon, has no Can-Bus connections, so changing those options won't do anything.

 

The EVO-ONE is two units in one. An EVO-ALL and a remote starter. That being said, there are two sections in this unit that you can access, the remote starter and the bypass. To access anything remote starter related, it should say Connection Mode : Remote Starter on the bottom right of the flash-link screen, to access anything bypass related, the flash-link needs to be set to Connection Mode : Bypass. To toggle between both connection modes, you need to hit the TOGGLE button while the EVO-ONE is disconnected.

 

The Bypass options are for anything that can be controlled through Can-Bus (which is not applicated on this vehicle since there is no can-bus connections to begin with).

 

The remote starter options are used mostly for convenience features and set up depending on the vehicle.

 

option 23 will reset the remote starter options.

To reset the bypass options, and also clear any previous programming done you need to follow this procedure:

  1. Hold down programming button
  2. Plug in power
  3. Let go of button when led is RED
  4. re-apply button and hold it down until all three LEDs start to alternate.
  5. once they start to alternate again, the bypass side is reset
répondu Mar 24, 2015 par Robert T (300,440 points)
Example: Which may help you understand a little what exactly is going on.

someone wanting to do 3x lock start on a compatible vehicle would have to follow this : http://wirecolor.com/en/qa/45303/faq-how-to-program-3x-lock-start-on-the-evo-one?show=45303#q45303

i forgot to mention

to reset the remote starter options (option 23) manually, follow this procedure:

turn ignition on

  1. press and the valet button (the toggle switch that plugs into the evo-one 2-pin port)
  2. when the led on the back of the unit starts to flash, release the switch
  3. press that same switch 23 times
  4. press and release the brake
  5. press and hold the valet switch for 5 seconds
The unit won't reset, and it won't go into Bypass mode, so I can't get to where the RF Kit selection is.

I tried a dozen time to reset it, and it just flashes the Red LED twice on the 2nd time pushing the button.

Yellow stays lit when I release on just red, and stays lit while the red flashes twice.

I am 99% sure that this unit is bad, and that is why I am having these issues, but I want to be 100% sure before I send it back.

I have to send back everything, including the wiring, which is a real pain, and there is no guarantee I will get my money back.

I would like to get this to reset using the button and get into the bypass menu to make sure there is not some reason the unit is doing what it is doing that can be fixed without replacement.

Wish they had a way to clear the eeprom in this.

It looks like once it gets flashed the first time, it stays for that vehicle and there is no way to change it, and it also keys to the car once it gets the 10 flashes on the red LED when first installed.

Am I correct on both these points ?

Thanks

Bill

The unit won't reset, and it won't go into Bypass mode, so I can't get to where the RF Kit selection is.

The RF-KIT selection is on the remote starter side in the OFFLINE section only.

 

Just call tech support when you get a moment. number is 1-877-336-7797

I am uploading a video, so you can see what I am seeing and you can tell me for sure if this unit is defective.  Thanks

Yes, something went wrong and the unit is most likely defective. This can be caused by any of the negative outputs from the 20pin connector shorting. So, When you get your new piece, I would suggest doing a basic install of transponder bypass + the T-harness, but do not connect parking lights and door locks (if they were connected).

 

Basically, have only what is indicated in the install guide connected along with also the (+)foot brake input connected (which is not indicated in the install guide).

  • Install Guide connections
  • (+)Foot Brake input on the evo-one (black wire from 20-pin) connected to foot brake on the vehicle

 

I am curious after writing the Foot brake comment above. You did have this connection done right?

Nevermind my last comment about removing the video. I'd rather have it there to use for future reference in case anyone else comes across the same problem.
The brake is connected.  The horn and parking lights are not.  The brake is labeled as positive, which matches the car.

The lights on the pink wire are labeled negative, which does not match the car.

More confusing, it says that when mode 2, option 4 is used that the Brown parking wire becomes positve.  I could find no brown parking wire, so not sure what they are talking about there.

Would make sense that the pink wire would switch to positive, if anyting.

I tested the car wiring, and did not get a signal, positive or negative, so did not hook it up.

The horn says negative, which matches the car, but again, in the car, the wire for the horn, I did not get a signal either way, so left it not hooked up.

On the EVO-ONE connection guide, it shows how to program the remote transmitters for the RF kits, but nowhere does it tell you how to activate the unit to accept the remote RF kit, or how to install it.

I see on the EVO-ALL it shows pulling the power, holding down the program button, inserting the power cable, waiting till the blue and red LED's light and then release, insert the key, Yellow LED comes on as well, then push the remote and hold it down, and the blue and red LED should flash.

When I first programmed the remote I did the turn IGN on, press and hold valet until LED inside unit flashes, then release, and push valet 5 times, push brake and release, and push transmitter, then push brake, then turn ign off.

But, I still do not see where to set the options for Crimestopper in the unit.  I can't see the Bypass side, so maybe the option is in there.

When you say negative outputs shorting for the 20 pin, does this mean a wire that says it is negative, like the parking light, if that gets touched to groud it shorts out the unit ?

Or if it were to get power applied it would short ?

If it says negative on the install guide, does that mean it provides a ground, or does that mean it needs a ground and is actually sending power down that wire, vs. getting power into the unit from the wire ?

Is there a fust that is replacable to fix this or is it not user servicable ?

It would be great if in the next revision of this unit, that they make either a self resetting breaker, or a fuse, or something that will tell you the wire is wrong, and let you fix it.

In my case, the only thing I can think is that one of those wires that was not hooked to anything might have come in contact with ground.

If the parking light or horn was sending power out from the unit, that would make sense.

I wish there was a way to reset the unit.  A fuse or breaker would be a great thing to add to each of those wires or into the unit would be even better.

At least now I know it is dead and I can't get it to work.

Now I have to remove the wiring in order to send the whole thing back to the dealer.

Really, wish they had RMA though the company website.  Would make life a whole lot easier.  I am guessing this is going to be something easily fixed at the factory.

Would be nice if I could just give a credit card number and have them ship another one and then send this one back.

Somthing to think about.

Hey, my link from my last post is gone from my message. Did you remove it ?

Thanks

Bill
I just saw your e-mail about the video.  The file is really large, about 300 megs, I can't send that big a file to the address you gave me.

Do you mean send you the link to the youtube page ?

Just curious, why don't you want it public.

I see other videos on Youtube for the EVO products.

I am sure other people have or will encounter this problem, and it drove me nuts trying to find answers on-line

Youtube was the first place I went searching.  My video will help other people.  I need to update the description so that it explains what happened to cause this and how to avoid it.

Not trying to give you bad press, if that is what you are thinking.  The unit was great, for the first 24 hours that it worked.  And hopefully the replacement will function with no problems for years to come.

I will have to search for the parking light (-) or the horn (-) on the car.

Once I have that, I will tape off or cut the other wire, since they both do the same thing, I think, just give confirmation on start and on pressing the valet switch.

If I am wrong on that, let me know.

Thanks again

Bill
I got your e-mail, but it does not show up here.  I changed the Youtube video, so it does not appear any more in a search.  I did check all the wires, and I do appriciate all the help.  I called the tech line a bunch of times before I started posting here.

The only wire that I was not 100% sure of was the keysense wire, which showed +6 volts when there was no key in and dropped to zero when key was inserted, showed continutiy with ground at that point.

I am guessing this is the way it is supposed to be, since the other wire from the keysense connector is a ground wire, and it shows that the keysense it hooked to the power side of the keysense connector.

One of the wires, either the horn or the lights, that were not hooked up, at some point, must have come in contact with ground, shorting the unit out.

I was careful, and I have installed remote starters before and never had an issue.

I think some sort of safeguard to prevent shorting, like a fuse, would be a really good idea for future models.

The fact that I am the first to ever have this problem does make me feel bad.  I did not know when I bought the unit that it required proffesional install.

I bought it on Ebay, and they probaably should not sell them there, or Amazon, so that only a dealer would have access to these units.

I have dealt with electronics like that before, where you could only get them through a dealer and they had to be installed by a dealer.

I just assumed that because they were on Ebay and Amazon that they were DIY, I think they actually say DIY on some of the listings.

Sorry for all the hassle.

no problem, we are here at tech support , to provide support. Like in your other post, just give us a call when you get the other unit and we will help you figure this out, because there is nothing worst than buying somthing and it doesn't work after you install it, trust me I've been there for other types of products.

Call us 1-877-336-7797 once you are ready.

 

Thanks for your understanding.

I will call.  I have checked the wires over and over.  The keysense does show ground when the key is inserted, but when the key is not in the IGN, it shows 6 volts +.

The Yellow wire form the 20 pin harness is connected to the pink wie on the 6 pin main power harness and it only shows 12 volts when the key is turned to the run position.

Otherwise it shows zero.

Thanks again

Bill

On the EVO-ONE connection guide, it shows how to program the remote transmitters for the RF kits, but nowhere does it tell you how to activate the unit to accept the remote RF kit, or how to install it.

The guide in the box of the EVO-ONE covers programming for Fortin remotes, not RF-KITS.

http://www.ceoutlook.com/2015/03/18/fortin-delivers-its-first-remote-start-transmitters/

In my first comment up top, looks like i linked you the EVO-ALL guide for setting up the crimestopper (when you actually needed the EVO-ONE guide).... Here's the right guide : EVO-ONE & Crimestopper REVO

 

The fact that I am the first to ever have this problem does make me feel bad.  I did not know when I bought the unit that it required proffesional install.

First one to have mentionned a problem like this. Chances are it happened to someone else to,  it's just that they didn't mention it. Nothing to feel bad about!

 

Youtube was the first place I went searching.  My video will help other people.  I need to update the description so that it explains what happened to cause this and how to avoid it.

Disregard my comment about removing the video. Leave it there for exactly that reasoning.

 

I bought it on Ebay, and they probaably should not sell them there, or Amazon, so that only a dealer would have access to these units.

Actually... when the unit came out, we forced them off eBay/Amazon. http://www.ceoutlook.com/2014/12/08/fortin-halts-sales-of-evo-one/

 

When you say negative outputs shorting for the 20 pin, does this mean a wire that says it is negative, like the parking light, if that gets touched to groud it shorts out the unit ?

It will not matter if a negative output on the unit touches ground. What you have to watch out for is where that negative output is connected to on the vehicle to make sure that wire never actually flips to 12V..

 

I just assumed that because they were on Ebay and Amazon that they were DIY, I think they actually say DIY on some of the listings.

I know, some of those sellers also mention things being plug and play.  We do not sell anything on eBay/Amazon.  We do not even sell the EVO-ONE on our own website. Our channel for the the entire product line is : Manufacturer --> Distributor --> Retailer.

 

So as Rico said (Jesus Monroy), just call us when you get the new unit. You can ask for either myself or him so you don't have to re-explain everything.

 

 

I am still confused on the negative / positive output.

I tested the horn wire and the - parking light wires.

Here is what I found:

On Parking Lights (-) that wire shows 12 volts when the lights are off, when the lights are on it drops to 2 volts.

Same with the Horn Trigger (-) that wire shows 12 volts when the horn is not used, drops to 2 volts when you press the horn.

On contrast, the Brake Wire (+) shows zero volts till the brake is pressed, then it shows 12 volts till you release the break.

 

I hooked up the horn and tested the unit, and When I press the valet button, and hold it down till the little red light inside flashes, and then release and press the valet again, the horn gives a short beep, it beeps each time I press the valet switch, until I get to 5 presses, and with the 5th press, it gives two short beeps.

It looks like that part of the unit is working fine.

The Parking lights on the other hand, as soon as I attached the pink wire to the wire in the car ( green/red) the parking lights come on.

This must be where the unit failed, in that circuit for the parking lights.

They should work just like the horn, and only come on when the valet is pressed or the engine starts or stops.

I rechecked all my wiring again, and it all looks good. Everything is where it is supposed to be.

I will wait for my replacement unit and then call when I am ready to install it.

Thanks

Bill

Parking lights, looks like you found where the problems began in the first place.

Parking lights on the 1999 Avalon are positive trigger located in the driver kick panel. The output on the EVO-ONE pink wire is negative trigger. So, to activate parking lights on this vehicle, you need wire up a relay in reverse polarity triggered by the negative output of the EVO-ONE to supply 12V to that vehicle positive parking light circuit.

Number 67 in the below picture is the location of the positive parking light ciruit. It's a GREEN wire.


Please contact us if you have trouble with the ebay/amazon reseller about getting the unit exchanged. Also, you should put that video back up on youtube if you haven't done so already.

There is a negative relay circuit for the parking lights, located at the bottom connector of the fuse panel.  It is a Green wire with a Red stripe.

Is this not OK to use ?

I can do a relay for the (+) wire ( Green ) in the kick panel, if the Green/Red (-) relay wire is not a good idea.

I am not sure if the lights turning on the second I hook the pink wire to the Green/Red wire is because of the short in the EVO ONE or if it would do this with a new unit.

That Green/Red (-) wire is showing 12 volts when the lights are off, and goes to 2 volts when I manually turn them on.

I am guessing that they should not turn on normally when the pink wire is attached, and that the pink wire normally would allow the 12 volts to flow through the unit to ground to trigger the lights.

If putting a relay in is the safer way to go and use the (+) wire, then that is what I will do.

I will put the video back up, and I will let you know if I have any trouble returning this unit for replacement.

I actually just bought another unit, from Amazon.  I want to use it on my 1991 Ford Explorer.

I was going to use a cheaper, older unit, but since I already have this one, and I don't want to take all the wiring apart to return it, I figure I will just swap the new one into the Toyota and use the other one when it comes back for the Ford

The Ford has no security at all.  I have not looked at the setup for the vehicle, but all I need is 12 volt, IGN, ACC and Start.

It is very basic wiring.   I did check, and there is no T-harness, wish there was.

Thanks again

Bill

We do not have anything listed for 1998 and lower Explorer. An EVO-ONE should work fine but I would recommend just getting a regular remote starter system such as the Crimestopper Cool Start or Pro Start series, http://crimestopper.com/products/remote-start/cool-start.html

My only real argument to that would be like trying to install windows 8.1 on a computer from 2001 with 16mb RAM. EVO-ONE is perfect solution for modern vehicles with data and can-bus networks


 

edited: changed F150 to Explorer typo

I have the replacement unit in, and it is working.  I have just the horn hooked up, and the brake, not going to hook up the lights, don't want to chance it.

The red LED comes on when I push the remote and that is the only LED that comes on, I guess that is normal.

It stays on while the car is running.

I put the dash back together.  Keeping my fingers crossed that it stays working.

It is not easy to get behind the dash where I installed this unit.

Not much space in a Toyota.

Thanks for all your help.

Bill
glad to hear that all is working!
I sent back the original unit for replacement.  Went out today in the mail

 

When it arrives I will do the power only test to make sure it works, then I will keep it as a backup unit, maybe I will get another vehicle in the coming years and be able to use it.

It is a really great unit.  I am going to get one of the older units for my 1991 Ford.

I installed keyless entry into it when I first got it, so I am going to try and find a unit that has keylees and remote start, so I don't have 2 remotes to carry.

 

Thanks again

 

Bill

I installed keyless entry into it when I first got it, so I am going to try and find a unit that has keylees and remote start, so I don't have 2 remotes to carry.

Most remote starter units will have keyless along with it. It shouldn't be a problem to find.

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